Looking around, I find myself in a winter wonderland that is one of the most picturesque sights I have ever witnessed. Mountains with snowy peaks surround me on all sides, pine trees have two inches of snow covering their branches, birds fly overhead struggling with all of their might against the winter wind, and beautiful white powder falls from the sky to coat the ground in a pattern that only mother nature can accomplish. As snowflakes fall on my face, they melt instantly from the steam that is rising from all around me. My body, which is sitting in one of the warmest baths I’ve ever been in, welcomes the cold water that the snowflakes leave behind. I lift my arm up out of the water, and it’s as if my body is smoking from an invisible fire on my skin. I’m as close to heaven as I could ever be on this earth.
Despite the bitter cold, I am as comfortable as can be in the Japanese onsen that I have traveled miles to enjoy. In this peaceful state, I forget the stinging cold walk I had to endure to get to the bath, and I lay back letting the warmth take away all of the stress from my body. The bliss that I feel can only lead me to one conclusion. The Japanese onsen is a magical thing!
An onsen by definition is a natural hot spring, but the word onsen often refers to the hotels and resorts that house these pools of paradise. Japan is known for their onsens because it is a country that is basically made from hundreds of volcanoes. I guess at least one good thing comes from these scary natural behemoths! The natural hot water that courses through the veins of Japan provides one of their greatest tourist attractions… the Japanese onsen.
One’s first experience in an onsen can be a stressful experience, as many things can prove to be in a foreign country with a completely different culture. But once the onsen etiquette is acquired, the experience is hard to match in comfort, beauty, and relaxation. Upon my arrival at the onsen, I pay my small fee of 700 yen, and I am given two towels. We are separated into groups of men and women (though this is not ALWAYS the case), and we enter our separate changing rooms. There, a small wicker basket or locker is waiting for me, and I strip down to my birthday suit leaving my belongings in the basket. Out of politeness, it is a good idea to try and cover up with your small towel out of modesty, but you’ll find that some will stroll around the resort with no fear. Being naked is something that is not looked at as awkward in this culture, and many have been going to onsens since they were children. It is definitely something a foreigner will have to get used to, but the reward is worth it! If you are clearly foreign, you can ignore the stares you get from just about everyone in the room. They are only curious about the foreign body, and being stared at is something you’ll get used to after a short time in Japan. Tattoos are often forbidden in onsens, but if you can cover it up, you’ll usually be okay.
After a quick walk from the changing room, I enter the onsen area where there is a small area for showering. I pick up my stool, set it in front of my mirror and showerhead, and take a seat. It is there that I must wash my hair and entire body before entering any of the pools. Once again, be sure you do this because you are being watched more than the average Japanese person! After I am completely cleansed, it is there that I am free to enjoy the indoor or outdoor onsen. Unfortunately, this particular resort has a decent walk to the rotenburo (outdoor onsen), and the birthday suit doesn’t provide me much protection from the chilling cold. I briskly walk down a flight of stone steps that may or may not have been colder than ice, and I make it to my destination.
The decoration was well thought out. The entire area is made of large uneven stone, Japanese lanterns are scattered throughout the room to provide minimal light, two walls are missing to allow snow to fall in and to provide a beautiful view, and large rocks are in the spa to provide seating. I feel like I was transported back in time to a beautiful Japanese castle.
I crawl into the onsen and just relax. Personally, I can’t take much more than a half hour in the pool as the water is incredibly hot, but it’s a wonderful half hour. As my body reaches a temperature that it can no longer stand, I raise myself out of the bath and prop up against a rock. The cold air cools my blood and it isn’t long before I want to submerge myself yet again.
After my body is completely relaxed and all tension has disappeared, it is time for me to shower yet again before returning to my normal attire. I leave the onsen without a care in the world and with muscles that feel like they’ve been massaged for hours. Nothing can touch me or excite me. I am at peace.
As of now, I’ve been to about five different onsens. My area in Japan is known for them since I live in the mountains, and I’ve even tried unique onsens where you are buried in hot sand for 15 minutes before your bath. Each experience is unique and leaves me wanting more. I have future plans to visit many onsens including a few at the top of the Japan Alps and other mountain ranges where the view is spectacular, looking over valleys and mountainsides. If you ever visit Japan, be sure to add this “must see” to your itinerary!
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